Fabric with float design areas and method



April 17, 1956 Filed Nov. 1s. 1953 l. O. MOBERG FABRIC WITH FLOAT DESIGN AREAS AND METHOD 3 Sheets-Sheet l ZJ-5r'- l )VAR 0. MDBERG, INVENTOR.

ATTORNEYS.

April 17, 1956 1. o. MOBERG 2,742,050

FABRIC WITH FLOAT DESIGN AREAS AND METHOD Filed Nov. 13, 1953 3 Sheets-Sheet 2 if V Y Y 23 22 j .z -Z F 5- INVENTOR:

NAR O. MoBERG.

ATTORNEYS.

April 17, 1956 l. o. MOBERG 2,742,060

FABRIC WITH FLOAT DESIGN AREAS AND METHOD Filed Nov. 13, 1953 3 Sheets-Sheet 5 INVENTORI VAR O. MoBERe,

ATTORNEYS.

United States Patent 2,142,060 FABRIC WITH FLOATf DESIGN VVAREASAND METHOD IvarO. Moberg, Spray,N. (JQ-assigner to Fieldcrest Mills, Inrc.,`Spray,`N.'C., a corporation of Delaware Application Novembertl', `19513,Serial No. 392,732

'23 Claims. (Cl. 139-419) drapes, curtains, stoles, hats and the lilre.

iCC

Patented Apr. 17, 1956 showing Vthe ornamental design areas formed fromtthe leno oats';

Figure `2is `a greatly enlarged view of the broken-line area'indicatedat 2 in Figure 1, showing the fabric-as it; is woven;that is, before being subjected to finishing operations, such as washing, bleaching and the like; ,Figure El is a greatly enlarged fragmentary view ofthe broken-line area indicated at 3 in Figure l, also showing the. fabric as it is woven, that is, before it vhas been subjected to the usual iinishing operations;

Figure 4 is Ia View similar to Figure 3, but showing the condition of the fabric after it has been washed.

Referring more specically to `the drawings, the letter A broadly designates a typical article of manufacture madey from a fabric embodying the improved leno weave. Said article A is shown inlFigure l in the form of a `bedspread, but it is to be distinctly `understood that the improved leno weave fabric may be used for the manufacture `of many dilferent types of articles, such as drapes, curtains, table coverings, stoles, hats, doilies and the like.

`The article A'includes a base, body or ground area Byvhich has .a plurality of ornamental design float areas It is an object of this invention toprovide a leno weave fabric havingv design areas therein in vsome of which substantial portions of the leno yarns are floated in X formations and having other areas. therein inwhich the leno yarns areiloated in Y, formations and wherein thetedges of at leastsorne of `the design areas'fo'rmed from said oats ,extend atan angle relative `to the warp and weft of the fabric.

It is another object of this invention to provide ya leno weave fabric'having a bodyportion in which `warpwise extending lines or wales, formed from closely adjacent pairs of groupsor tapes A,of lenoffacewarp yarns, are interwoven with weft lyarns injal serpentine manner and wherein tapes formed-from theleno face Warp Yyarns in eachwale are spaced substantiallyffrom eachother andoated over a substantialnumber of the weft yarns with the lloated po ions of the groups in each pair being drawn together in X or Y formations.

It is stillanotlierobject of this invention to provide alleno weavefabric ofrthe-typke last Ydescribed wherein adjacent X formations formedffrom adjacent pairs of groups of said leno warpyarns are disposed in over lapping side by side-relation and alsowherein the marginal edges of areas having such yXfoat,formations therein extend at an angle relative tothe warp and we ft of the fabric. s

It -is another object of-this invention to `provide a method `of Weaving a fabric `comprising loosely weaving a pluralitypof sets of` approximately:four-ground'warp yarnsA each in a` leno weave vwith-successiveseries of weft yarns, interlacing anplurality of `sets' of-approxmately four leno face warp'yarns each at closely spaced points witheach set of groundwarp yarns'to form relatively 'shortiloats therefromon' the under side'of the fabric in forming a body portion, oat-ing `successive portionsof each set of leno face warp yarns `over a substantial n umber of thel weft yarns vand over the corresponding Vsets of ground warpf-yarns'in angular/relation tothefwarp 'and' weft to form-a -row=,ofleno"faceffloats, from each or leno float areas superimposed thereon. The ornamental design..areas may be of any desired shape or configuration, the ornamental `design areas in the central portion of the article A each` being indicated at-100 and being substantially diamond-shaped. Inner marginal areas 101`are also formed from leno floats along oppositeside, edges ,and the, bottom of the body of the fabric shown in Figure l, the inner edges of the marginal areas 1 01 being irregularaccording to the desiredpattern.

s Outside Amarginal areas` or border areas `102 are super- `imposed, over the ground fabric along the opposite side edges and bottom of the `article A in Figure l.

In this instance, each vof the area'slill) and 101 includes Warp' wise and weftwise extending rows ofk staggered leno floats i.

shaped substantially in the form of the letterX and each of theborder areas 102lincludes a plurality of closely spaced rows of warpwiseand weftwise extending rows of leno iloats formed substantially in the form of the letter Y or V. s j

However, it is to be understood Uthat the areas 100 and/ or 101may be'provided with substantially Y-shaped `or`V-shaped`leno'iloats and the areas 102 may be pro- `vided withsubstantially X-shaped oats, if desired, withoutl departing from lthe spirit of the invention, the invention mainly-residing in the provision of` ornamental i areas or zones formed'from either X-shaped, Y-shaped set of 'leno'face -warp-yarn'shwhile vvarying the length of d adjacent rows-to produce variantly-s'hapedlornamental float areas, and then shrinking thefabric to cause the weft yarns and ground warp-yarns to draw together so the face floats have a loose sinuous appearance. 1

Some of the `objects i' of the invention having been stated, other objects will appear as the description proceeds, when taken n'connection with t-he accompanying drawings, in whichy Figure v1 is a somewhat schematicillustration Vof the improved leno weave yfabric embodied` in 'an' bedspread s .weft of the `woven fabric. eoatsare substantially -in the shape of the letter X. The jfabric in Figure?I includes a ground fabric or. a backing .woven from a seriesof adjacent `leno ground tapes or .sets1of leno ground warpsyarna 'each of which sets inor V-shaped leno floats wherein the edges of such areas extend atan angle relative to the warp and weft of the woven fabric.

"Int Figure 2,

there is illustrated a portion ofthe fabric `wherein theornamental area defined by the leno ilcat formations extends atl an angle relative to the Vwarp and ln this instance, `the leno cludes two complementary groups of leno ground warp .yarnsA 10, and 11.` In thisinstance, each of the groups .10 and l11 includesV four parallel leno ground warp `yarns. L-,Easch of said series of lenoA ground tapes llliand 11defines alwale, thepwales shown in Figure 2 being indicated ata to e, inclusive.

` 'The lenoground warp yarns 10 and 1l are loosely interwoven with ground weft yarns which, for purposes of description, are divided into successive groups indicated at 142` to 21,A inclusive, in Figure 2. Each of the wales a through e also-basa pair of lenoface or` effect tapes 22 and 23V which are complementary to the respectivepairsof lenoV ground tapes 10 and 11i Each of said leno face tapes or leno effect tapes includes a plurality of parallel leno face Warp yarns or doup yarns. In this instance, each of the leno face tapes is formed from four leno face warp yarns. The groups of Warp yarns 10, 11, 22 and 23 are termed as tapes only for purposes of distinction, since it is obvious that each tape comprises a plurality of relatively slack parallel leno warp yarns. The face yarns 22 and 23 are preferably, but not necessarily, of a softer and more pubescent texture than the groups of ground yarns 19 through 21.

In the body B of the fabric, the leno face tapes 22 and 23 cross back and forth above the corresponding groups of leno ground tapes and 11 as shown in the weft yarn groups 12, 13 and 14 and the upper portions of Wales a, b, d and e. It should be noted that, at the juncture of the weft yarn groups 12 and 13 in wales a, b, d and e, for example, the leno face tapes 22 and 23 are crossed over the corresponding leno ground tapes 1t) and 11 and extend beneath the ground weft yarn groups 12 and 13, but alternately on opposite sides of the corresponding leno ground tapes 10 and 11. Thus, the leno face tapes 22 and 23 each extend in a serpentine or irregular path throughout that part of the lengths thereof which are disposed in the area or areas B other than the ornamental design areas.

Now, the ornamental float design areas 100 each includes a plurality of rows of floats, said rows being of varying lengths, and wherein the leno face tapes 22 and 23 in each Wale a, b, c, d and e are floated over a substantial number of the ground weft yarns and are also floated over the corresponding leno ground tapes 10 and 11.

Each of the floats in each row or Wale in Figure 2 is designated at F and it will be noted that at the beginning and end of each of said rows, the leno face tapes extend vin substantially parallel relationship astraddle the corresponding portions of the leno ground tapes 10 and 11 and are floated beneath the ground weft yarns, such as the weft yarn group 12 in wale c.

The leno face tapes 22 and 23 then pass over, inwardly and across the corresponding leno ground tapes 10 and 11, that is, the two leno face tapes 22 and 23 converge inwardly after passing downwardly beneath a group of three tie-in ground weft yarns 13a of group 13 and then pass beneath an intermediate group of three tie-in ground weft yarns 13b, which are also a part of the group 13. However, the corresponding leno ground tapes 10 and 11 extend above the intermediate tie-in ground weft yarns 13b astraddle the face tapes 22 and 23 and then the leno face tapes 22 and 23 diverge and again cross over the corresponding leno ground tapes 10 and 11.

Thereafter, the leno ground tapes 10 and 11 pass above, and between the proximal edges of, the leno face tapes as the face tapes pass beneath a second outer group of tie-in ground weft yarns 13e, which are also a part of the group of weft yarns 13. Thus, the leno face tapes 22 and 23 in Wale c are spaced substantially from each other since they pass beneath the outer group of tie-in ground weft yarns 13C and outwardly of the leno ground tapes 10 and 11.

The floated portions F of each of the tapes 22 and 23 are then floated downwardly from the tie-in group of ground warp yarns 13C and are superimposed across and above a plurality of the ground weft yarns including the yarns in group 14 and a few of those in group 1S, the latter few being indicated at 15a. The group of ground weft yarns 15 not only includes the outer group of three tie-in weft yarns 15a, but also includes intermediate group of three tie-in or gathering ground warp yarns 15b and a second group of outer tie-in ground weft yarns 15C, the three groups 15a, 15b and 15a` of the group of weft yarns 15 at Wales b and d serving in the same capacity as the groups 13a, 13b and 13e of the group 13 in the Wale c.

However, referring again to the Wale c, it will be observed that the intermediate group of tiein ground Weft yarns 15b passes beneath the two groups of leno ground warp yarns 10 and 11 in Wale c, but pass above the floats F of the leno face tapes 22 and 23 in Wale c thereby drawing or gathering said floats together at this point. Thus, the floats F in Wale c converge from the group of tie-in ground weft yarns 15C to the intermediate group of tie-in ground weft yarns 15b. Thereafter, reading downwardly from the intermediate group of tie-in weft yarns 15b, the floats F then diverge and pass beneath a group of three outer tie-in weft yarns 17a and outwardly of the corresponding leno ground tapes 10 and 11 in Wale b which, contrary to the floats F of the leno face tapes 22 and 23 in Wale c, pass above the outer tie-in weft yarns 17a.

The groups of weft yarns 17, 19 and 21 are also each divided into three groups of three tie-in weft yarns in the same manner as the groups of ground weft yarns 13 and 15. Thus, the group of weft yarns 1'7 is divided into three groups of three tie-in weft yarns including outer tie-in weft yarns 17a and 17e and intermediate tie-in weft yarns 1717. Of course, the group of ground weft yarns 19 includes outer groups of three tie-in weft yarns 19a and 19C and an intermediate group of three tie-in weft yarns 19b and the group of weft yarns 21 includes an outer group of three tie-in weft yarns 21a and an intermediate group of three tie-in weft yarns 2lb. It should be noted in Wale c that the yarns in each of the leno ground tapes 10 and 11 are loosely interwoven with the weft yarns in each of the groups 12, 14, 15a, 15C, 16, 18, 19a, 19e and 20, but all of the yarns in each tape 10 and 11 pass above all the weft yarns in each of the groups 13a, 13b, 13C, 15b, 17a, 1717, 17C, 19b, 21a and 2lb. On the other hand, all the yarns in each leno face tape pass beneath all the weft yarns except where the face floats F are present.

It is thus seen that a plurality of rows of X-shaped floats F are formed in the wales a, b, c, d and e in which the junctures of adjacent X-shaped floats F in each Wale are tied into the ground fabric formed from the ground Warp yarns or leno ground tapes 22 and 23 and the ground weft yarns by means of three groups of three tiein weft yarns in the manner heretofore described with respect to the outer and intermediate ground weft yarns 13a, 13b and 13e in Wale c.

It should be noted that the length of each of the rows of X-shaped floats F may vary as desired and, in particular, it will be noted that the spaced upper and lower ends of each of the floats in the Wales b and d are tied into the fabric substantially midway of the adjacent X-sh'aped floats F in the Wale c therebetween. Thus, the X-shaped floats F are disposed in staggered relationship in adjacent wales. Since all of the floats F in each row are constructed and tied into the base or ground fabric formed from the ground warp yarns and the ground weft yarns in the same manner, a further detailed description of Figure 2 is deemed unnecessary.

The fabric structure shown in Figures 3 and 4 includes wales g, h and i, each of which wales includes two groups of parallel leno ground warp yarns or leno ground tapes 10a and 11a `and two groups of leno face warp yarns or leno face tapes 22a and 23a. The portion of fabric shown in Figure 3 also includes successive groups of ground weft yarns 25 to 33, inclusive, reading from top to bottom. The structure shown in Figure 3 is quite similar to that shown in Figure 2 with the exception of the configuration of the floats thereof, which floats are indicated at F-l. It should be noted that the floats F-1 in Figures 3 and 4 are disposed in staggered relationship in adjacent wales and the floats F-l are substantially Y-shaped or V-shaped.

1n other words, the portions of the floats F-1 disposed .5 above intermediate groups of tie-in ground weft yarns, such as group 27a in Wale h andgroup 31a in wales g :and

n extend upwardly'inp'arallel relationship to the point at which they are tied into the base fabric, these upper parallel portions of the floats F-1 being floated above the corresponding ground weft yarns land between the leno ground tapes a and 11a, the yarns in each of said leno ground tapes being loosely interwoven with the corre- Spending ground weft yarns.

sThe portions of the leno face tapes 22a and 23a forming the lower portion of each of the lloats F-.l inFigures 3 and 4 diverge from the Vcorresponding tie-in weft yarns and, in so doing,'extend above the corresponding leno ground tapes 10a and 11a as well as a substantial number of the ground'weft yarns. The lower ends of the floats formed from eachrpair of leno face tapes 22a and 23a are held in spaced relationship in identically the manner heretofore described with respect to the structure shown in Figure 2. For example, it will be noted that an outer group of tie-in weft yarns 33a, `which are a part of the group 33, -pass beneath the leno ground tapes 10a and 11a in wale g. On the other hand, the leno face tapes 22a and 23a extend beneath the outer tie-in group of weft yarns 33a and are`disposed astraddle the comple mentary leno ground tapes 16a and 11a.

The backing or ground fabric formed-in those portions .of the wales between adjacent floats F-l in Figures 3 and 4|is woven'in substantially the same manner as that described with respect to the structure shown in Figure 2, in which relatively short spaced floats are formed underneath the fabric `or beneath lcorresponding weft yarns from the leno face tapes 22a and 23a in each wale, these relatively short floats being al'ternatelyformed lbetween and astraddle the complementary leno ground tapes 10a and 11a, with the leno ground tapes ,being interwoven `with the .corresponding ground weft yarns in substantially the manner described with respect to Figure 2, lt is 'therefore believed thata further detailed descriptionof .thestruct-ureshown in Figures 3 `and 4 is unnecessary. V...As heretofore stated, in'Figure 3, the portion ,of fabric .shownis illustrated las it is woven or as it .comes off: the loom and the. portionof fabricshown in VFigure 4 vshows the-appearance of the fabricportion ofFigure 3 Vafterit has .been washed. Since the leno face yarns .22a .and 23a areiloated for substantially theentire `lengtlrtjhereof and may also be .Woven under slightly lesser tension .than that ofthe `leno `ground tapes .10a andlla, the leno yground .tapes .Ilia .antilla `and the `groundweft yarns tend to shrink substantially .greateramount than that of the leno face tapes .or lenfo face warpyarns `22a 'and 23awhen .thefabrio is washed. This produces 4a luify texture in .the-floatsfFfl, as illustrated in Figure 4, so the floats F-.l are. loosely..superirnposed .upon the. ground` fabric.

Although` Figure ..4 is anillustrationof ,the fabric shown inFigureS. after. it has .been washed,it.is appa-rent that .theiloats F in the port-ion oftthefabric shown-inEiguie 2 would also have a similar appearance to that ofthe floats rF-.1.i.n.Figure 4when the fabric-.ofFigureZ is awashed. f .It isthus seen that`I havefprovided an improved fabric structure andmethod of producing same which -comprises .a lenobase fabric or backing, in' portionsof which `orna- .rnental .design areas are formed, such `ornamental design areas .including rows .of .leno` floats fin which `the 'floats .extend at an angle relative to the weft andwarp of Ithe fabric yand wherein the oats inadjacent rowsvare disposed .in .staggered relationship from row t-o row and also Iwherein .the rows .areof varying lengthso that thegeneral .configuration of each yornamental design area is varied, .that is, softheedges of .are'as-.dened'by saidacljacent v'row-'s ef floats, orfportions of said-edges, extend at an angle.relative `tothe-.warp andweft of the fabric. After zthefabricis ,woven` it is washed to shrink the sarnevsoas .tofdraw .the base fabric, whichis formedby open-weaving,

to.. shrink and .become closed. This .causes .the Vfloats in ,eachY row tohavea loose sinuous appearance.

i `Throughout the specification and-some .of theclairns, 'tlie`tern1"leno whereu'se'd is to'be construed 'in'its broadest sense and refers, inl particular, toatface warp yarn or group efface warp yarns havingl portions which pass back and forth across a complementary base yarn or complementary groups of base warp yarns and which are locked in such positions by weft yarns, such as the portions of the tapes 10 and 11 in Wale c, between the groups of weft yarns 13a and 13c,.in the upperportion of Figure 2,. With this exception, fabrics constructed in accordance with the present invention are completely diierent from conventional leno weave fabrics-as they yare currentlyknown in the art, since the effect produced by the face warp tapes is, to, my knowledge, la new construction heretofore unknown in the art. Also it is contemplated that thev plain weave between and underlying the face floatsv may be substituted by more attractive and intricate weaves than` that shown in Figures 2, 3 and 4, all within the concept of the present invention.

In the drawingsand specification there has been set forth a preferred embodiment of the invention and, al though specific terms are employed, they are used in a generic and descriptive sense only, and not for purposes oflimitation, the scope of the invention being defined in the claims. i

I claim:

1. A fabric having a bodyportion formed from interwovenground warp yarns and ground weftiyarns, ornamental areas Yformed inportions of said body portion each including a plurality of rows of floats, each ,row including a plurality of alined floats, said rows being of varying length, and each of said floats, at least in part, extending at an angle relative to, and above, a plurality of said ground weft yarns. l

2,. A fabric havingl a base formed from Ainterwoven ground warp yarns and ground weft yarns, at least ,one ornamentaliarea formed in said base comprising a"plurality of rows made from spacedfgroups of facing yarns and each-rowincluding a .plurality ofrecurrentoats 'formed from Vsaid, facing yarns, and said floats, inpart atleast, extending at an angle to, and above, aplurality ofsaidground weft yarns and a plurality ofsaid ground warp yarns. y .3. A vfabrichaving a .base formed frominterwoven i ground Vwarp yarns and r4ground Lweft yarns, atleast one ornamental area formed.V in saidbase comprising. a plurality of rows made fromspaced groupsof facing yarns and each rowincluding a` plurality of vrecurrent oats formed fromsaidfacng yarns, and .adjacent floats being .drawntogetherintermediate their ends and bound to the base by certainof said ground weft yarns to produce `a substantially X-shaped formation `to saiddloats.

4f A fabric having a base formed Vfrom interwoven ground warp yarns and ground weft'yarns, at least one ornamental area formed in saidbase comprising a plurality of rows made from spaced groups of facing yarns and each row including a .plurality ofrecurrent oats formed from .said facing yarns, adjacent floats being drawn together, intermediatetheir ends and bound to .the

base by certain of said ground weft'vyarns to produce .a substantially X-shaped formation to said heats, and adjacent X-shaped iloats in adjacent rows beingdSposed. in staggered relationship. Y

5..A fabric havinga base `.formed from interwoven ,ground warp yarns and ground weft yarns, atleast vone ornamental area formed in'said Ibase comprising aplurality .of rows made from spaced groups. of facing yarns and each row including a plurality of recurrenttloats formed from said facing yarns, corresponding end portions of adjacent floats in each adjacent pair of rows being disposedin juxtaposed relationship and extending across, and above, aV substantial number of said weft yarns, Athe other-end portions ,of said last-named `adjacent floats extending in divergent relationship `from .the juxtaposed `portions thereof, and a few-of s aid ,weft ,yarns passing over the ffoats at the juncture of the juxtaposed and divergent portions thereof to tie the medial portions of said adjacent floats into the base whereby said adjacent floats collectively have a substantially Y-shaped form.

6. A fabric having a base formed from interwoven ground warp yarns and ground weft yarns, at least one ornamental area formed in said base comprising a plurality of rows made from spaced groups offacing yarns and each row including a plurality of recurrent floats formed from said facing yarns, corresponding end portions of adjacent floats in each adjacent pair of rows being disposed in juxtaposed relationship and extending across, and above, a substantial number of said weft yarns, the other end portions of said last-named adjacent floats exJ tending in divergent relationship from the juxtaposed portions thereof, a few of said weft yarns passing over the floats at the juncture of the juxtaposed and divergent portions thereof to tie the medial portions of said adjacent floats into the base whereby said adjacent floats collectively have a substantially Y-shaped form, the Y-shaped floats in each pair of rows being spaced apart, and the adjacent Y-shaped floats being in staggered relationship weftwise of the fabric.

7. A woven fabric having a body formed from interwoven weft yarns and ground warp yarns, wales formed in said body from successive weftwise spaced warpwise extending leno tapes generally extending beneath the warp yarns and the weft yarns and being interlaced with the latter at substantially uniformly spaced points warpwise lof the fabric, ornamental design areas formed in said fabric, each area comprising a plurality of rows each including one or more floats therein, each of said rows embracing a wale, each of said floats including a portion of the corresponding leno tape floated over the corresponding ground warp yarns in angular relationship thereto and being floated over a substantial numberrof said weft yarns.

8. A woven fabric having a body formed from interwoven weft yarns and ground warp yarns, wales formed in said body from successive weftwise spaced warpwise extending leno tapes generally extending beneath the warp yarns and the weft yarns and being interlaced with the latter at substantially uniformly spaced points warpwise of the fabric, each of said leno tapes including a plurality of face warp yarns, ornamental design areas formed in said fabric, each area comprising -a plurality of variable-length rows each including one or more floats therein, each of said rows embracing a wale, each of said floats including a portion of the corresponding leno tape floated over the corresponding ground warp yarns in angular relationship thereto and being floated over a substantial number of said weft yarns.

9. A woven fabric having a body formed from interwoven weft yarns and ground yarns, wales formed in said body from successive warpwise extending pairs of leno 'tapes generally extending beneath the warp yarns and the weft yarns and being interlaced with the latter at substantially uniformly spaced points warpwise of the fabric, the leno tape in each wale being spaced from each other, ornamental design areas formed in said fabric, each area comprising a plurality of rows each including one or more floats therein, each of said rows embracing a wale, each of said floats including adjacent portions of complementary pairs of leno tapes floated over the corresponding ground warp yarns in angular relationship thereto and being floated over a substantial number of said weft yarns, and edges of said areas, at least in part, extending at an angle relative to the weft yarns.

l0. A woven fabric having a body formed from interwoven weft yarns and ground warp yarns, wales formed in said body from successive warpwise extending pairs of leno tapes generally extending beneath the warp yarns and the weft yarns and being interlaced with the latter at substantially uniformly spaced points warpwise of the fabric, the leno tapes in each Wale being spaced from each other, ornamental design areas formed in said fabric, each area comprising a plurality of rows each including one or more floats therein, each of said rows embracing a Wale, each of said floats including adjacent portions of complementary pairs of leno tapes floated over the corresponding ground warp yarns in angular relationship thereto and being floated over a substantial number of said weft yarns, edges of said areas, at least in part, extending at an angle relative to the weft yarns, and at least a portion of said adjacent portions in each wale being drawn together beneath at least one of said weft yarns to produce a substantially V-shaped formation to each float.

ll. A woven fabric having a body formed from interwoven weft yarns and ground warp yarns, wales formed in said body from successive warpwise extending pairs of leno tapes generally extending beneath the warp yarns'and the weft yarns and being interlaced with the latter at substantially uniformly spaced points warpwise of the fabric, the leno tapes in each wale being spaced from cach other, ornamental design areas formed in said fabric, each area comprising a plurality of rows each including one or more floats therein, each of said rows embracing a Wale, each of said floats including adjacent portions of complementary pairs of leno tapes floated over the correspending ground warp yarns in angular relationship thereto and being floated over a substantial number of said weft yarns, edges of said areas, at least in part, extending at an angle relative to the weft yarns, and portions of the pair of tapes forming each float being bound together intermediate the ends of each float to produce a substantially X-shaped formation to each float.

12. A woven fabric having a body formed from interwoven weft yarns and ground warp yarns, wales formed in said body from successive warpwise extending pairs of leno tapes generally extending beneath the warp yarns and the weft yarns and being interlaced with the latter at substantially uniformly spaced points warpwise of the fabric, the leno tapes in each wale being spaced from each other, ornamental design areas formed in said fabric, each area comprising a plurality of rows each including one or more floats therein, each of said rows embracing a wale, each of said floats including adjacent portions of complementary pairs of leno tapes floated over the corresponding ground warp yarns in angular relationship thereto and being floated over a substantial number of said weft yarns, edges of said areas, at least in part, extending at an angle relative to the weft yarns, corresponding end portions of the two leno tape portions forming each float extending in parallel juxtaposition between the adjacent ground warp yarns and over a substantial number of said weft yarns, binder weft yarns tying the medial portions of the portions of said two leno tapes forming said floats together, and the other end portions of the two tapes forming each float extending in divergent relationship from the corresponding binder weft yarns to produce a substantially Y-shaped formation to each float.

13. A woven fabric having a body formed from ground warp yarns. interwoven with ground weft yarns, said ground warp yarns being divided into groups to form ground tapes and each pair of ground tapes defining a wale, each wale also including a plurality of leno face warp yarns divided into two groups to form face tapes floated beneath the weft yarns and being interlaced with the respective ground tapes at spaced points so they successively pass between and astraddle the ground tapes in the corresponding Wale, at least one design area formed on said body comprising a plurality of contiguous rows each having a plurality of face floats therein, said rows being of varying length, each of said face floats being formed from the face tapes of the corresponding wale wherein a substantial portion of each face tape is floated over a substantial number of said weft yarns and over the respective ground tapes, and the medial portions of the two face tapes forming each face float being drawn and are interwoven with the ground warp yarns in substantially spaced relationship at other points spaced from said spaced points to cause the floats to extend at an angle relative to the ground weft yarns and the ground warp yarns.

21. A method of making a portion of fabric which comprises weaving a plurality of adjacent complementary groups of at least two face warp yarns and at least two ground warp yarns in a leno weave with spaced groups of at least two weft yarns to form leno loops thereat, interweaving the ground warp yarns with second groups of a greater number of weft yarns than that of said spaced groups in a plain open weave between adjacent pairs of said spaced groups while floating portions of the groups of face warp yarns beneath some successive second groups of weft yarns, forming rows of face floats by successively oating other portions of said groups of face warp yarns over, and in angular relation to, the corresponding groups of ground warp yarns as well as other successive second groups of weft yarns, varying the number of face oats in adjacent rows, and then shrinking said fabric portion Ito cause the weft yarns and ground warp yarns to draw together so the face oats have a sinuous appearance.

22. A method of making a portion of fabric which comprises weaving a plurality of substantially parallel complementary groups of at least two face warp yarns and at least two ground warp yarns in a leno weave with first spaced groups of at least two weft yarns each to form leno loops thereat, interweaving, in a plain open weave, the ground warp yarns with a plurality of second groups of a greater number of weft yarns than that of said first groups so there is one of said second groups between each adjacent pair of said rst groups and while oating successive first portions of the groups of faceiwarp yarns beneath certain successive second groups of weft yarns,

forming rows of face floats by successively oating other portions of said groups of said face warp yarns over the corresponding groups of ground warp yarns and successive sets of two second groups of weft yarns so each successive face float embraces two of said second groups of weft yarns, drawing the medial portions of each adjacent pair of face floats together to produce an X shape to said last-named face oats, varying the number of X- shaped face floats so formed from row to row, and then shrinking said fabric portion to cause the weft yarns and ground warp yarns to draw together so the face oats have a sinuous appearance.

23. In a method of making a fabric from face warp yarns, ground warp yarns and weft yarns; the steps of forming adjacent parallel rows of substantially X-shaped floats from adjacent groups of said face warp yarns while weaving said weft yarns in a plain open weave with said ground warp yarns beneath said rows of oats, varying the length of at least two of said rows, and then shrinking said fabric to cause the ground warp yarns and weft yarns to draw together so the oats have a loose and sinuous appearance.

References Cited in the tile of this patent UNITED STATES PATENTS 1,661,142 Lipper Feb. 28, 1928 1,730,263 Brooks Oct. 1, 1929 1,961,961 Coldwell June 5, 1934 2,367,744 Whewell Ian. 23, 1945 FOREIGN PATENTS 7,897 Great Britain of 1898 10,920 Great Britain of 1901 24,661 Austria Feb. 1, 1906 160,408 Switzerland May 1, 1933 

